Oatmeal Congee Is the Savory Breakfast That Will Save Your Winter

I fell in love with congee while living just north of Taipei in 2011. As a vegetarian, I was delighted to discover that Taiwan is a leading producer of fake meat products: I sampled vegetarian, imitation versions of everything from ham and squid to pig’s blood, fish balls, “chicken butt,” and pork floss, along with the requisite stinky tofu, which left me impressed (and slightly disturbed) by the distinctive funk that seemed to linger in my throat and sinus cavities for hours afterwards.